Brahmaputra’s Kaziranga

Sharing my article based on Kaziranga, gibbon and nameri - Assam published on ghumr.com

to read with photographs click on following link
http://www.ghumr.com/assam-brahmaputra-kaziranga/

Awesome Assam

Brahmaputra’s Kaziranga

Wildlife doesn’t necessarily be seen only in forest ecosystems. Different pants and animals are adapted to different habitat such as fresh as well as marine water, marshy lands, grasslands, alpines etc. Each habitat has its own beauty. We Indians are really very lucky to have almost all types of ecosystems in country and it is surely one of the many reasons why we should be proud of her. She has plenty of rivers - some huge some small but, they all support great number of biodiversity. Brahmaputra is one of the massive rivers that our country has.

We decided to experience this different habitat in the month of March, 2016. Although many people prefer taking a flight to Guwahati and continue from there by road but, to save cost one can take a train to Guwahati and continue the further journey by road.  We decided to take the second option. It was 58.5 hrs train journey (two nights) from Mumbai. The train passes through the varied and interesting landscapes of country. We reached third day morning to Kamakhya. Kaziranga is about 210kms away from this station. One of the three and half ‘shaktipithas’ (places of Goddess Shakti) - The Kamakhya temple is on the way to Kairanga.

We reached Kaziranga in the afternoon. Our hotel was near central gate of the national park. There are five zones of the park. We booked our stay near central gate and did five safaris from 3 gates – the central, eastern and western. We had one elephant ride, three jeep rides and one boat ride in the national park.

Kaziranga is located near Karbi Anlong Mountains/hills and also listed in UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites. It won’t be totally wrong if one says that Kaziranga has got its landscape from the river Brahmaputra. It holds ecosystems such as grasslands, forests, lakes etc. The area gets its fertile soil from this river. There is a particular species of grass called as Elephant grass grows here and it is a favourite food of one of majestic animals – the Greater One Horned Rhinoceros. Elephants, Swamp deers and hog deers are some of the few commonly seen animals here. Earlier, India was home to all the three species of Asian Rhinoceros – Javan, Sumatran and Greater one horned. Now only one species is surviving here that too comes under ‘endangered’ category of ‘IUCN’s Red Data List’. Rhinoceros are majestic creatures. When I first saw them I just kept on looking and forgot that I was carrying a camera. But, I was satisfied as I could admire the animal very well. Its skin folds across its flanks and tubercles give it look of armour-plated body. The horn that they have is actually a thick hair. It grows throughout the life and can be regrown if broken. It is considered to have medicinal properties. That is a reason why they are poached and it is a reason behind them getting endangered. As a habit they follow regular paths and defecated as the same place creating piles of dung. This makes it easy for poachers to find out their location and hunt them down. We also saw a mother and baby (one month old) while we were having an elephant ride. The baby gave us demonstration of how perfectly his mother was teaching him to grow. One of the safari elephant went too close to mom-kid pair. Immediately the kid took an attacking position, warned the elephant to keep the distance and managed to shoo him away.

Elephant sighting was another remarkable moment. When we first saw, it was only one male elephant with tusks and it looked disturbed. We thought it might be because of us and we kept a very safe distance from him. But, we were wrong as immediately we saw a group of another four elephants that were trying to shoo him away from them. That group had two females, one immature female and one Makhna (male with no tusks). We still kept a safe distance as none of them looked in good mood. We observed them nicely for about 5-10 minutes. If you are wondering how come earlier we missed the group of four elephants? Then the answer is the grass here grows really tall. Elephants can easily get hidden in this grass. Only tops can be seen.

If you have plenty of time in hand then a visit to Hoollongapar Gibbon Sanctuary or Hoolock Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary – an area created conserve the only Ape species found in India the Hoolok Gibbon. The very distinct difference between other primates and apes is the lack of tail in apes. Apes can walk on the hind limbs for a considerable distance. It takes 3 hrs to reach there from Kaziranga. It has dominance of Hollong trees (Dipterocarpus macrocarpus) hence the name Hollongapar. Hoolock Gibbons got theier name from regular calls they make that sound like ‘Hoos’.  If you here their ‘hoo’s ‘ then you will remember it for ever. The protected area of the sanctuary is currently surrounded with tea plantations but it was once the patch of huge forest that continued till Nagaland. So, one can imagine the kind and intensity of the pressure on the forest and the life within it. We got to see many primates as well like – stumped tailed macaques, northern pig tailed macaques, eastern Assamese macaques, rhesus macaques and capped langurs. We saw one family and one more adult pair. The males have black fir whereas females are brown. The white eyebrows of males are very distinct. Observing hoolocks is a great experience. They hold and hang to a smallest twig with such an ease as we walk in gardens. This place is also good sight to good number butterflies that one can find in North-East part of India. The Variety of arboreal ferns such as bird nest fern is remarkable too. We were supposed to stay here for 2 hrs. However we spent about 5 hrs in roaming here and observing the diversity. It is advisable to keep the entire day free for this sanctuary. After this we returned to Kaziranga in the evening.

One should not miss the chance to experience the vastness of River Brahmaputra. She appeared almost like a sea to me. There is also a chance of freshwater dolphin sighting. Apart from these the water birds like herons, egrets, adjutant storks, openbill storks are seen in plenty. We also saw Great Hornbill. It nests there. We had initially planned for only three rides but after looking at this place decided to have two more jeep rides and we are really glad that we did it.

We visited orchid gardens before we left for Nameri. Orchid garden is another nice place to visit. But please keep about 2 hrs in hand to see this place properly. Nameri is located at about 5 hrs drive from Kaziranga. Nameri is another beautiful place. It has a really good forest that holds good amount of biodiversity. People come here for observing birds and butterflies. We reached here little late and it was a cloudy day so we decided to visit the nameri village. It was worth having a stroll in the village. The houses are built in unique. There is a different kind of satisfaction and calmness I have always observed in any village that I have been. I am not saying that villagers don’t have problems but there is still one can get peace here. After enjoying evening stroll, we came back. Our stay was in tourism department approved hotels at kaziranga (namdang house) as well as here in Nameri. The food that we got at both these places was too good. 

Next day we went to Pakke tiger reserve which is in ‘Land of the rising sun’ – the state of Arunachal Pradesh. It was decided to visit here as it is very close to Assam and all other sanctuaries in Arunachal Pradesh are far away from this. So the best way to visit here is through Assam. If you are not staying overnight in Pakke then it is advisable to carry packed breakfast and leave early in the morning for Pakke. There won’t be any shop open at that time. We started at 4.30 in the morning and reached Arunachal border by 7am. After some time we had breakfast the we carried with us and had chai at local tea stall. Surprisingly here too no one was in hurry. Even women from villages were having their morning tea from the same tea stall. People are very friendly here. All of them have a sweet smile on their faces. Pakke has few villages nearby and really good and thick forest. We did birding for some time and decided to return as we had booked for river ride in Nameri. We had our lunch at a local lunch home. It was Rs. 40/- for a full-fledged thali. River ride on raft was another fun. We saw many raptors and water birds on the riverbanks. Next day early morning we left for Guwahati airport. We wanted to save on time so we opted for flight. On the way we halted to see birds at Pobitara Sanctuary. One must keep about two hours extra to enjoy birding here. We too enjoyed a lot and did some bamboo baskets shopping at the roadside shops on the way. Overall it was a memorable trip. Looking forward to make another visit to Assam as six days are not enough.

Gulf of Khambhat - Abode of birds and stones!

This article was initially ublished on Ghumr.com. To read article with photographs click on the following link
Gulf of Khambhat - Abode of birds and stones!

Agates, Blackbucks through Saras!!

It was December, 2015. We were nearing to the year end and packing our bags for a nature camp to Khambhat and Velavdar. Both the places have unique identity and both are located in Gujarat. Khambhat is known for Agates business and Velavadar has a Blackbuck National Park.

Vadodara is the nearest station for Khambhat. We reached there in the morning after having a cup of tea at the tea stall nearby station and waited for bus. Finally the bus came. Here we saw a strange thing; the last seat of the bus was removed and there was a broad bed fixed in-place of the seats. I guess at least four people could seat there and play cards or have a chit chat session. When we enquired to the driver it was said that this is a common practice and this way we can accommodate more people than regular seats. However, it was strange and not acceptable for us as we require proper seats. So, after a lot of struggle and arguments for the entire day we made the vehicle agent to change our bus and provide us the proper vehicle.

On our way to Khambhat from Vadodara station we got to see some birds like Francolins, Rose-ringed Parakeets, Egrets, Herons etc along with an Antelope – the Neelgai. This patch is very rich agriculture. One can see tobacco farms everywhere while driving on this road. Since we started from station early morning and only had a cup of tea before leaving the station, we all were eagerly looking for some food joints. The breakfast of Papdas, Gathiya and Bhajiyas is the peculiarity of this region. Every local food joints will serve you same things and it is tasty.

We reached khambhat in about 3hrs from Vadodara. It was earlier known as Cambay. This place attracts marine scientists, historians, archeologists and geology experts as well.   Khambhat receives local tourist flow but, very less tourists actually stay within Khambhat. If you are interested in architectural designs then Khambat can make you happy to certain extent. One can see a combination of Gothic and Islamic architectures in some of the old monuments and buildings of the town. Tourists come here for Agates. This city is the largest seller of agates. Scientists have ‘excavated’ remains of ancient Indian civilization deep down inside the sea in Gulf of Khambhat. This area is of historical and geographical interest. Tidal fauna (crab, molluscs etc.) here attracts the scientists. Tourists cannot go that deep to learn ancient civilization but, if you are interested in archeology then, Lothal is the must place to visit. Which is at about 2hrs dive from Khambhat.

What brought us here was tremendous variety of birds – migratory, local, water and land – all sorts of birds that one can see nearby khambhat. One can visit Dhuwaran sea/creek shore near thermal power plant.  On the banks of Mahi River. The Pariej is another place reserved for bird.  It is water logged area. There is a watch tower and observe many wetland species of birds such as painted storks, cormorants, herons, dabchicks, lapwings, stilts etc. Just about few meters ahead there is a water body where we saw lots of Dalmatian pelicans, Painted storks, Northern shovelers, Pied avocets, Brahminy ducks etc.

Next day was for Lothal. We have been looking pictures of this ancient Indus Valley Civilisation (Harappan civilization) site in our school textbooks. It was time to actually see them on the site. Our guide Mrs. Swati Pancholi explained us details of each and every thing present in the museum as well as on the site. Lothal in local language means ‘City of Dead’. However, when we learnt about the those people and their lifestyle, the architecture, the trade sense and perfect use of natural resources available , I thought that they still live in time with their tremendous knowledge and we – the modern people have a dead mind. It will take a really lot of time for us to actually understand their intelligence.

Since this drive too has lots of birding opportunities as there are wetland/ponds made by Mahi River. Normal drive takes 3hrs but, people with birding in mind, we decided to start early-a little before sunrise. The road was a treat to eyes. Openbill storks, Pelicans, Paited storks, woolynacked storks, shovellers and many more water birds made our morning a really memorable one. The sighting of Saras cranes in the fields was something amaizing. These huge birds have specific diets and they pair for lifetime. Due to construction on agricultural lands, wetlands there is a question mark on their survival. On our way back from lothal we saw a family of Saras crane – two immatures guarded by their parents with adult male walking in front and adult female behind.

We headed for velavadar next day. On the way decided to visit the largest protected area for birds- The Nal Sarovar bird sanctuary. There was a huge crowd and we were part of it. Forest guides and boats (private boats but government approved) are available here to take you inside and give information. One irritating and absolute unscientific thing we saw there was – ‘feeding birds’. There were venders selling ‘Gathiyas’-a local snack and it is not for your consumptions. Tourists offer them to birds and lots of Gulls get attracted towards the boats. We off-course didn’t buy any such stuff and informed the guide about how bad this habit is to the birds. Sometimes I feel that a day should come when these birds feed us with their food – raw dead lizards, insects, fishes etc. The correct way to conserve them is to protect their habitat instead of giving them wrong as well as readymade food.

After finishing our Nal-safari we continued our journey to the Blackbuck National Park’ in Velavadar. Blackbuks are antelopes. Male is dark black fir and female has brown fir. This place is also a largest roosting site for Harriers. Even foxes and jackals can be seen here. We were lucky to see them. There created another question in mind about the survival of these ones as well. There were property boards displayed near-by the sanctuary. Blackbucks require an open grasslands to survive and the area allotted for their protection is just about 38.08sq kms!! There was no doubt that we had lot of sightings in this regions of birds of prey-Shikra, falcons, harriers, eagles, mammals –blackbucks, Neelgais, Foxes, Wolfs, Wild boars etc. but, it is necessary to control the rapid urbanization that this place is going to face in near future. Unfortunately, wastelands and grasslands are treated as wastelands and are given to builders but these habitats are crucial for the survival of such open land flora and fauna and ultimately for our survival too.

Bhavnagar is the nearest station to the Velavadar so we headed towards it to catch our train. The drive goes through amaizing landscape. The sea is about 30kms away and on every full moon day and No moon day the high tide reaches till here and leaves wonderful landscape and biodiversity. We visited Bhavnagar palace. It came as a nice surprise that there are paintings of birds put-up on walls of this palace. O the trip that started with birds ended with birds too. And we were really happy.

A mouse like!

Trekking – yet another thing that I am not fit for.  So when, a friend of mine invited me for a trek to Khanderi and Underi forts I was not sure about attending. But, then I was told that being Sea forts there won’t be much trekking involved. It will be an easy trek. It was easy indeed and that gave me some time to admire the biodiversity of the region. This is difficult in case of in medium and hard  level treks.

The name Underi is derived from – Mouselike (probably because of its small size and made up of black rock i.e. basalt) and Khanderi is derived from the God – Khanderaya.  Earlier they were also called as Hennery-Kennery.

Prior permission is required from maritime board to visit these forts. A better option is to join some trekking groups that take care of such permission. I went with Youth Hostel Association - India’s Mumbai Unit.

'Thal Jetty'

We started from Mumbai at 6.45am by private bus and it took us about four hours to reach the Thal jetty of Alibaug district. 'Thal' jetty was full of hustle bustle of fishermen and fisher-women. It was a huge tamarind tree that grabbed my attention. It was standing in the middle and looked very old. It has nice sitting area surrounding it which must be used by locals as common place for chitchatting. There on an electric wire above were sitting nearly 8 Drongos devouring the leftovers of fish catches. There was a huge pile gathered of varieties wasted dried fish (fish manure) and it was a ‘fishy feast’ time for Drongos. There were gulls too but they preferred to stay closer to the water (sea).

Getting in and out of boat at Underi

Underi Fort

A motor boat took us ahead from here to Underi fort first and then to Khanderi fort. Since there is no accessible jetty for this fort one has to jump on the boulders from the boat. The experts tried to maintain the minimum distance between fort and the boat. Underi is built up by making walls of huge quadrangular rocks kept on each other and gaps in between them filled up with smaller rock pieces. Almost no binding material used to hold them. It’s simply a matter of trigonometry and perfect timing while fixing/piling them together. This fort was built by Siddhis. The fort like many other forts in Maharashtra is in ruined state but, whatever is left is worth watching. Here again my attention was grabbed by a Fig tree first and then the fort. This fort has three fresh water tanks, few escape routes. Afterwards when I did some referencing it has cave with carvings and an underground prison that was used earlier. I didn't see any of these personally. There are few cannons scattered here and there.

Walls of the fort

Cannon @ Underi

Arch. No packing material can be seen

Fig tree

Khanderi fort was built by Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. It is now re named as Kanhoji Angre Island. Kanhoji was a Naval Chief in Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj's time. Khanderi has a light house that was built by East india Company in 1867. (Ref.:  https://books.google.co.in/books?id=k59aVCIlFB8C&pg=PA53&lpg=PA53&dq=Khanderi+underi+name+derived+from&source=bl&ots=VOLmVOmDgw&sig=KMfckmKnbfjLcyA3n9d7ScmC4ww&hl=en&sa=X&ei=fzwAVfalLMTHmAWT7IDYCQ&ved=0CEUQ6AEwBw#v=onepage&q=khanderi%20light%20house&f=false)

Before visiting the lighthouse we saw a huge rock (probably basalt) giving out a metallic sound when hit by another small piece of rock. It could be because of metal content or it may be having some pores. But, I really don’t know if basalt shows such characters. I will be glad if someone could explain it to me. This fort campus also has few temples with ‘Vetal’ being the most famous and still in worship by fishermen of nearby areas. This fort also has a Christian Cross ad Buddha temple. There are many cannons scattered like that in Underi fort. Three of them are with the carriage. There is a grain storage area too. There was a pair of kestrel flying in the sky, few trees of Indian Jojobe and grass species. One should not expect a great variety from such places but, one must visit these places at least once.

Lighthouse

Cannon @ Khanderi fort

Few more scattered

There are two things that one would notice strongly immediately after entering these forts. First is huge amount of garbage scattered all over including thermocol, plastic plates and to make it worse the beer bottles. The second thing is - useless names marked on rocks. These “souvenirs” must have originated from the visitors who come here to “admire” the beauty of the area. These hopeless habits are ruining the discipline of the forts. A visit to such places should help in making the visitor a better disciplined human being and not to show how bad a human can be. There are lots of things going around in having ‘Chhatrapati Shinaji’s' statue in the sea but what’s the point in having/supporting Chhatrapati’s statue anywhere in the sea when we cannot maintain the dignity of his history? Cleaning and maintaining his forts will be a better tribute to this great hero. Think about it…

Contribution of 'Civilized' people

Some more contribution

Thank you for reading

Clean-up drives

It has been more than five years that I am participating in beach clean-up drives on  the Mumbai coast. Majority  of the time I have coordinated it. Clean-up drives are used as strong tool for sensitizing citizens specially students regarding the huge quantity of waste that is generated in cities like Mumbai. We need to understand that If we are generating waste then it is our duty to discard it properly. When it comes to our home, we simply put it in a dustbin and hand it over to municipal authorities..... the waste is out of our house... the problem at the house level is solved. but.... when it comes to the earth,,,, there is nothing called as "outside" ... basically all the garbage that it created at residence, offices, schools, factories etc. remains on earth only. In my city there are two major festivals in which Idols of Plaster of Paris (POP) are created worshiped for certain days and then immersed in our very own sea 'The Arabian sea'. Traditionally these idols are supposed to be made from soil. So that, when one immerses the idol it disintegrates on its own and almost no harm is caused the water ecosystem. But, this age is a age of rapidness and competition ,,, and this competition and rapidness has entered in celebrations of festivals as well. Hundreds/thousands of idols are made every year. Since 'soil' one's are difficult to make and one can not prepare huge idol from it hence the option of POP is always selected. It takes very less time to prepare as compare the soil. Hardly any one bothers about hazards of POP. It affects the water ,, it affects the life in it. It stays in water for long time ,, a very very long time... Not only idols but in general all the waste is ultimately dumped in the sea. We have also came across the medical waste (syringe, bloodbags etc.) while conducting such cleanups. Since schools and college students volunteer for such cleanup drives , I am very much hope full for better future of our sea life and ultimately our lives as well.

It is my humble request to all those who conduct clean-up drives that use it as a tool for creating awareness. Our aim is not just to clean the place but to create such a future where there will be no need for such cleanup drives.